Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Finding Religion on the Glenn Highway



Today we stopped in the village of Eklutna, near Anchorage on the Glenn Highway. There the Russian Orthodox village has an Aleut customary cemetery with Spirit Houses on the graves. They were all repainted last summer and are very bright although old. Some have new houses over old ones that sunk. The tradition comes from an Aleut belief that in the afterlife, a person needs comfort and shelter. The priest explained this was not in conflict with the Christian belief in an afterlife.

For a voluntary suggested contribution (I didn't ask for my change), I got a personalized tour and a lesson in Orthodox christianity. The split between east (Constantinople) and west (Rome) occurred in 1046. At issue was the papacy. The east felt in matters of importance all bishops should vote, and the bishop of Rome should be just one vote. There are a few other theological differences, involving the immaculate conception (which confused this 12 year parochial school graduate but I looked it up online and the priest was right!) and the Holy spirit. One main difference is that an orthodox priest, if married when he is ordained, may be married. Father Daniel is married. He is from Russia, ordained in 2001, and in Alaska since 2003. He has a wife and two children, has a parish in Anchorage, and is the tour guide at this cemetery on Wednesdays. We discussed oil prices, (since I was from Houston, he thought I knew the answer), and then global warming. I explained my sabbatical which is allowing me to find my true purpose in life. (I think it might be to be a bum). He found today to be quite warm, while I thought it was glorious! It might get to 80 in the interiors. I suggested that his black robe and purple velvet hat might be on the warm side.

Daisy's walk was a 2 mile round trip famly hike to Thunderbird Falls. On the way up, I could hear children's voices playing on the creek below. On the way back, we walked with them. Ah, the energy and delightfulness of youth. Daisy was pooped out.

We saw a cub black bear on the old Glenn Highway, and reveled in the glorious scenery of this national scenic byway, the Glenn Highway. The mountains are like Switzerland. Four mountain ranges converge here: the Alaskan, the Chugash, the Wrangell and St. Elias. The second highest peak in North American is in this range. The road winds up valleys and overlooks a braided river below, passing two glaciers while dipping and rolling along.

Tomorrow we go to Valdez and probably rain, so we are thankful for today's glorious weather. We will be cruising Prince William Sound on the 4th of July. There's still some oil on the shores, I hear, from 18 years ago.

Speaking of green, Fred Meyer, aka Krogers, is my favorite store up here. I got more plastic grocery bags than Daisy could use up on her daily walk, so I decided to take them in and reuse them. They paid me 5 cents for every bag I reused. Now there's a green idea I love. Even Carl was impressed. The nickel got his attention. It took twice as long to bag our groceries, but the checker was cheery and spirited. I am not sure how the people in line behind us felt, but who cares? Not me, I'm retired. Fred Meyer will do the same if you bring cloth bags. Made me nostalgic for the days of returned bottles, which made so much more sense than our disposable society today. Go Kroger!

One last thought: in Fairbanks last week, the international conference on permafrost met. Alaska is 80% permafrost. If it melts, roads and buildings will go sloshing down.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Margaret - I am so loving reading about your trip!!!! Keep the posts coming. Have a wonderful 4th of July!!!!

-Jen Peel

Margaret said...

Happy fourth America from the 49th state!